Taiping Heritage Society
By Gary Lit Ying Loong - April 21, 2024 @ 10:01am
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| Overaching centennial rain trees basking in the morning sun |
FOR more than a century, travellers from near and far have been mesmerised by Taiping's mystical allure. The breathtaking beauty of the Lake Gardens has often been compared with the romantic Westlake of Hangzhou or the manicured gardens of Suzhou in China.
Taiping embraces and enfolds us into its magical world of serenity, giving weary minds and souls a much-needed respite. During the tumultuous revolutionary wars against the Manchus in China in the early 1900s, even Dr Sun Yat-Sen came to seek some solace and refuge here.
Besides providing shelter from the sun for generations, the overarching rain trees lining the lakeside have been an anchor of memory and marker of identity for Taiping as it grew over the century into a modern town today.
However, the peaceful scenery belies a violent past. If the century-old rain trees could speak, they'd tell of a bloody history that defined early Perak and Malaysia.
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| Fifth generation descendants of the Kapitans and Ngah Ibrahim_ From left, sisters Chung Lai Yoong, Chung Lai Yin, Datuk Sri Wan Mohd Isa, Liew Suet Fun and the writer. |
After the discovery of tin by the nobleman Long Jaafar in Larut in 1848, thousands of workers from China were brought in to Perak to work on its rich alluvial deposits. Many of these workers were members of secret societies, and the Ghee Hin and Hai San factions were dominant groups in Perak at that time.
Not long after, arguments flared up between the two factions over territorial and water rights, resulting in the devastating Larut Wars.
During my recent visit to his office, territory chief or Orang Besar Jajahan (OBJ) Datuk Seri Haji Wan Mohd Isa Haji Wan Mohd Razalli shared: "Unfortunately, different factions of the Perak sultanate were also involved in these wars. The Ghee Hin group was allied with Raja Abdullah while Hai San faction supported my great-great grandfather Ngah Ibrahim, who is the son of Long Jaafar, and he was also backed by Raja Ismail."
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| Ghee Hin temple plaque showing pictures of Kapitan Chin Ah Yam and Chung Keng Kwee |
Following the Pangkor Treaty in 1874, Straits Settlements governor Sir Andrew Clarke installed Raja Abdullah as the sultan of Perak and anointed Chung Keng Kwee and Chin Ah Yam, leaders of the Hai San and Ghee Hin group, respectively, as Chinese kapitans.
In a symbolic move, the British also renamed the town of Larut to Taiping, which means "forever or great peace" in Chinese.
ASSASSINATION OF BRITISH RESIDENT
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| The late Ngah Ibrahim and his sons. |
The Pangkor Treaty paved the way for British intervention in Malaya with the appointment of James W.W. Birch as the first resident of Perak. However, due to his unpopularity, Birch was assassinated by local Malay chief Datuk Maharaja Lela and his followers in Pasir Salak in 1875, leading to the ensuing Perak War.
After defeating the local rebels, the British hung Datuk Maharaja Lela and his accomplices, and both Raja Abdullah and Ngah Ibrahim were exiled to the Seychelles.
With a voice tinged with sadness, Wan Isa lamented: "After exiling Ngah Ibrahim, the British confiscated all his assets, including his two steamships and an entire herd of elephants. Do you know, elephants in those days are like Mercedes cars today!"
RISING FROM THE ASHES
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| Perak Museum in Taiping is the oldest museum in the country. |
After the initial turbulence, Taiping lived up to its promise as a peaceful and vibrant town. It recovered with renewed vigour, driven by the booming tin mines and rapid population growth, which fuelled a massive expansion and development.
In the process, many new buildings and facilities were constructed, boasting a unique architectural landscape and adding a rich tapestry of life.
The first railway in Malaya was built to connect Taiping with Port Weld (Kuala Sepetang) to export tin. The Taiping Zoo, hospital, museum, Lake Gardens and country club are also among the 20 "firsts" in the Federated Malay States (FMS).
LEGACY OF THE KAPITANS
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| Ghee Hin Temple in Matang refurbished by both Kapitans Chin and Chung. |
The Pangkor Treaty helped to heal the rift between Hai San and Ghee Hin factions.
Local historian Liew Suet Fun, a fifth-generation descendant of Kapitan Chin Ah Yim, whom I met through the course of my research for this story, shared: "After the treaty, both Chung Keng Kwee and Chin Ah Yim became good friends. Kapitan Chin even became the godfather of Kapitan Chung's son, Chung Thye Pin." Kapitan Chung named his favourite son after his beloved hometown.
Her smile wide, she continued: "The kapitans worked hard together to ensure peace and development for the town. They also jointly contributed their land for the beautiful lake gardens and established Yeng Wah Hospital in Taiping, which served the community, regardless of race or religion."
The hospital created a medical milestone with the installation of the first X-ray machine in the Far East in 1896. Yeng Wah Hospital later became the Taiping Hospital.
Beaming with pride, 82-year-old Chung Lai Yin, present during a photoshoot later, revealed: "My great-great grandfather Chung Keng Kwee donated generously to many schools and temples, including the Kek Lok Si temple in Penang. He also donated to Queen Victoria's golden and diamond jubilees."
Besides the generosity of the kapitans, the magnificent Taiping Lake Gardens was born out of the imagination and efforts of British colonial administrators Sir Frank Swettenham and his wife, Lady Sydney Swettenham, Sir Hugh Low and Sir Ernest W. Birch, who redeemed his late father's pride and legacy.
Today, Taiping residents of all races mix happily together. This peaceful relation dates back to its founding days when the kapitans were close friends with the sultans, Malay chiefs and British officials.
PEACE PARTNERS
Given Taiping's synonymity with peace, the Taiping Peace Initiatives were first mooted by four founding partners — Taiping Municipal Council, Taiping Tourist Association, the United Nations and Universiti Sains Malaysia.
To promote these initiatives, a non-governmental organisation (NGO) called "Partners for Peace" was established in Taiping in 2010. Over dinner one evening, its founding president, Beh Yang Toh, explained: "It's important for us to have peace. Without peace, there's no development and future for us!"
Ever since its inception, Partners for Peace has worked actively with other organisations to promote peace. Current president Joseph Lau once shared: "In conjunction with the 150th anniversary celebrations for Taiping and International Peace Day, we're planning a special peace carnival involving local, national and international partners this September."
ILLUSTRIOUS SCHOOLS
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| Alumni and PIBG board of King Edward School. Front row from left, OBJ (brown suit),Haji Mohaideen (grey suit), VP Alex Ooi and PIBG Chair Lim Kah Huat. |
The rapid expansion and population growth of Taiping had resulted in the rise of some outstanding schools, which produced many illustrious leaders who have shaped the destiny of both Malaysia and Singapore. It's a remarkable achievement few towns could match, thanks to its unique geography and history.
Founded in 1883, the Central School of Taiping in Jalan Stesen changed its name to King Edward School in conjunction with the coronation of King Edward VII in 1901. Being the oldest school in the FMS, it has produced many luminaries, including two sultans and a president.
During my recent visit, its long-serving alumni president Haji Mohiadeen Abdul Kader Mohd Ishack shared: "During my time, the British colonial government sent some of their best teachers to teach us. They set a high standard and taught us good English. Our loyal alumni is also a great help."
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| The writer with the SGI board of management president Joseph Lau, Paul Low and principal, teachers and students of St George's Insitution of Taiping. |
St George's Institution (SGI), also in Jalan Stesen, is another distinguished school with a century-long record. It has produced many government ministers for both Malaysia and Singapore.
In a recent visit to its impressive gallery, one of its alumni, Paul Low confided: "Our brothers were very dedicated and inspiring teachers. Every day, they stayed back after school to teach and coach our students."
Being the oldest girls' school in FMS, the 135-year-old Treacher Methodist Girls' School in Jalan Muzium has been able to successfully uphold its motto to "Live Worthily" and produce many outstanding leaders for the country.
The pride in the eyes of its alumni president Lim Kim Tin was palpable when she explained: "Over more than a century, our dedicated teachers tirelessly nurture discipline, industry and dedication in our students."
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| The president of alumni, Madam Choong, with the principal Norehan Ibrahim, teachers and students of SMK Convent of Taiping. |
Meanwhile, for SMK Convent Taiping, established in 1899, its sister nuns had earned a reputation for being the most dedicated and caring of teachers. Its alumni president Choong Yan Tai said: "The dedication of our sisters was unquestionable. They had given their lives to guide and nurture us. We really owe them a big debt of gratitude."
I was also fortunate to meet the alumni president of SMK Hua Lian in Jalan Lumba Kuda, which has, for decades, been consistently producing some of the best academic results in the country.
Over coffee, the indefatigable Teoh Kok Tong commented: "The Confucian values we imbued in our students has helped them to develop good discipline and focus on their studies."
Besides those stellar schools, the less-fortunate pupils with special needs are educated at the self-funded Sekolah Semangat Maju Taiping (SSM) in Jalan Hang Jebat under the patronage of the Perak Sultan. Last year, the Permaisuri of Perak helped the school to successfully launch three colourful books drawn by its talented students.
UNFORGETTABLE MEMORY
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| Book launching by HRH Raja Permaisuri Perak Tuanku Zara Salim together with Datuk Seri Wan Mohd Isa (Taiping District Territorial Chief) and Alex Loh (President of Perak Association for the Intellectually Disabled) |
The peace and beauty of Taiping have left an indelible impression on everyone, especially its early generation who had gone on to study abroad and live overseas. Although they're an ocean apart, their hearts still beat with the rhythm of their hometown.
Meeting some of them recently and listening to their stories have warmed my heart. I remember when Datuk Tan Thian Hoo, the former chief executive officer of Komag (a hard disk manufacturer now under Western Digital) who is living in the United States, beamed with fondness as he reminisced: "I still miss the warm and friendly relationship of Taiping folks. It's like a close-knit family."
Former corporate director and long-time United Kingdom resident Kue Fullck still waxes lyrical about her hometown. Softly, she enthused: "I love my Maxwell Hill and Taiping Lake Gardens. I miss them every day!"
Datuk Chuah Teong Ban, former Malaysian ambassador to Ukraine and Peru, had also much to say: "The pacifist aura of Taiping has imbued in me the love for peace and prepared me well for my diplomatic career."
On the same note, Teh Leong Thian, a former managing director in Singapore, shared: "My scouting experience as a king scout at King Edward School and around Taiping hills has instilled in me a love for peace and leadership."
PRESERVING NATURE AND HERITAGE
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| Members of heritage society and staff taken at New Club (oldest country club in FMS). Fourth from left in front row; Liew Suet Fun, Chung Lai Yin, Ong Bok Kin, Yeap Thean Eng, Barry Teoh (New Club Manager), Joseph Lau and Beh Yang Toh. |
Besides British soldiers, the Taiping War Cemetery commemorates our brave Malayan volunteers who fought the Japanese in World War 2.
Retired Royal Malaysian Air Force (RMAF) brigadier-general Datuk Loke Kok Yee recounted: "During the Emergency, the British had a huge military camp in nearby Kamunting. We could hear the bugler playing the Last Post almost every week as they buried their dead soldiers."
During a recent international tourism show in Berlin, Taiping was rated the third-most sustainable city in the world. However, in his book The Footprints of Nature, Loke lamented: "The rapid development after the insurgency has destroyed much of our precious flora and fauna. I witnessed these changes from the ground and air as an RMAF pilot. Sadly, some of the iconic natural events related to Taiping had disappeared."
Echoing the same sentiment, Yeap Thean Eng, president of Taiping's heritage society, mentioned: "We're organising a special heritage trial in conjunction with our 150th anniversary celebration of Taiping. We're striving to retain our natural wonders and old-world charm before it's too late."
Taiping has a transcendental and transformational effect on everyone, deeply touching our hearts and souls. Its serenity and tranquility reach beyond our physical dimension, evoking a deep emotional and spiritual bond with it.
Let's hope Taiping will be able to maintain its unique peace and beauty forever.
A POEM: TAIPING — A PARADISE ON EARTH
Taiping-o-Taiping, you are so charming
Your Maxwell hill is green and endearing
Your Burmese pool so clean and sparkling;
Taiping Lake Garden is simply awe inspiring
With pink lotus smiling and bamboos gently swaying
The overarching centennial rain trees are entrancing
With majestic hornbills, herons and storks gracefully gliding
Revealing a unique beauty and history so enthralling.
Dr Gary Lit Ying Loong is a retired academic from Nanyang Technological University Singapore. He's a visiting professor to some universities in Asia and Europe. Reach him at garylit33@gmail.com.
By Sivaji Vaithilingam My Ipoh
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The 1969 Group of Hotels, Headlines International and the Taiping Municipal Council have embarked on a journey to breathe new life into the 130-years-old Taiping Rest House.
On hand to perform the ground breaking ceremony was Local Government Development Minister, YB Nga Kor Ming, Transport Minister, YB Anthony Loke, YB Wong Kah Woh, YBRS Khairul Amir Mohamad Zubir, YB Teh Kok Lim, YB Ong Seng Guan among others.
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| YB Nga Kor Ming, Minister of Local Government Development |
The momentous occasion to bring back the glory days of the new 1969 Heritage Rest House Restoration is also timely to promote tourism to the Taiping.
“We pay homage to a legacy that spans 130 years—the Taiping Rest House, the first of its kind in Malaysia.
“In preserving this iconic landmark Headlines International and 1969 Group of Hotels together with the Taiping Municipal Council, will embark on a journey not only to restore bricks and mortar but to safeguard the very essence of Taiping’s rich cultural heritage” Ian Chua, CEO of 1969 Group of Hotels.
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| Ian Chua, CEO of 1969 Group of Hotels |
“The 1969 Heritage Rest House stands as a living testament to our shared history, a beacon of nostalgia that whispers tales of bygone eras.
“Its significance goes beyond its architectural grandeur; it embodies the spirit of resilience, endurance, and the timeless beauty of our heritage.
“As we embark on this noble endeavor of restoration, we recognize the weight of our responsibility. We are not mere caretakers of a building; we are guardians of a legacy—a legacy that must be preserved and passed on to future generations”. added Chua.
The VIP guests later performed the ground breaking ceremony to mark the launch of the restoration project.
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| VIPs performing the groundbreaking ceremony |
It is believed that initially the wooden single-storey building, built as the residence of the British Governor of the Straits Settlements in 1879. In 1894, it was upgraded to a double-storey stone building with “Rest House 1894” inscribed on the pediment.
Therefore, It is credited as the first Rest House in the Malay States.
My Ipoh
By Ivan Loh The Star, Metro News Friday, 19 Jan 2024
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| The Raintree Walk skirting the Taiping Lake Gardens at the heart of the town is among the most popular attractions. — Photos: RONNIE CHIN/The Star |
TAIPING is 150 years old this year and the townsfolk are feeling proud and excited about the milestone.
They are anticipating a happening year as a host of activities has been planned to celebrate the anniversary.
Taiping Sri Guru Singh Sabha chairman Datuk Balraaj Singh Tarlachon Singh said, “People are hyped up. It’s going to be a busy year.
“The municipal council has already contacted all associations to organise events.
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| Taiping Heritage Square will see the launch of the town’s 150th anniversary celebrations tomorrow |
“Our gurdwara is planning a dinner in July where we hope those who have left the town will return to attend.”
Balraaj believes Taiping has changed and developed a lot over the years, even to the extent of being somewhat overdeveloped.
“Land is becoming more limited in Taiping and development has expanded to Kamunting and even Kerian.
“Even houses here are more expensive than those in Ipoh,” he said, adding that houses in most new residential areas would be snapped up as soon as they were available for sale.
“I just hope Bukit Larut will be maintained as it is and no development allowed near it,” he added, referring to the hill resort formerly known as Maxwell Hills located about 10km from the historical town.
He said Taiping’s tourism sector has boomed in the last few years.
“Hotels here are often full, especially during weekends,” he added.
Balraaj was happy to see many young people returning to the town.
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| Balraaj says many young people are returning to Taiping and starting their own business. |
“Taiping used to be known as a pensioners’ town as most young people would leave after finishing secondary school due to lack of opportunities back then.
“But now, we are seeing a lot of young people coming back, with some opening their own businesses while others are taking over their family business. This bodes well for the future of the town,” he said.
“The cost of living is still relatively low.
“For example, we can still get a plate of char kuey teow for about RM5,” he added.
Taiping, which means “everlasting peace” in Chinese, was established in 1874 following the end of the Larut War, to mark the peace between warring tin mining groups.
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| The clock tower built in 1881, still chimes to this day. |
Back then, Taiping was a tin mining town that attracted droves of Chinese settlers seeking to make their fortunes.
Formerly known as Klian Pauh, Taiping was also once the administrative capital of Perak.
It was also the capital of the Federated Malay States comprising Perak, Selangor, Negri Sembilan and Pahang before Kuala Lumpur.
After its supply of tin dwindled, the state administrative capital was moved to Ipoh in 1937.
Apart from being among the first tin mining towns in the country, Taiping had many other ‘‘firsts”.
These included having the first port, railway track, telegraph office and prison in the country.
Taiping also had a reputation for being the wettest town due to the frequent rain.
It was well known for its Lake Gardens, Taiping Zoo and Night Safari, and Bukit Larut.
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| Matang Museum is a good place to learn more about Taiping’s history. |
Taiping Heritage Society president Yeap Thean Eng said they have planned a heritage treasure hunt to be held sometime in September, in conjunction with the International Day of Peace.
“It will be a two-days one-night event. We will invite everyone, including non-governmental organisations and families, to drive to Taiping to participate in the event,” he said.
Yeap hoped to see more sustainable development in Taiping in the future.
“I also wish to see more industries set up to provide job opportunities for the youths.
“What Taiping needs is proper planning so development won’t lead to chaos,” he said.
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| Business in Taiping is lucrative as the historical town develops. |
He expected more tourists to arrive once the West Coast Expressway, connecting Banting in Selangor to Changkat Jering near Taiping, is opened next year.
Yeap also wished to see more efforts to preserve the locations and buildings with heritage value, adding that he was happy with the ongoing restoration of the 140-year-old Taiping Market.
“I think the market should be ready in the second half of the year to coincide with the 150th anniversary celebrations.
“I also understand that a tender has been awarded to a private company to convert the Rest House, a 130-year-old heritage building in Jalan Stesen, into a boutique hotel,” he added.
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| Khoo showing old photos of Taiping on display at the clock tower which now serves as a tourist information centre. |
Taiping Tourism Cooperatives chairman Khoo Chang Yau Seong was proud that the town was still peaceful , living up to its Chinese name.
“The town is developing and stable. However, more can still be done to elevate it.”
Khoo hoped Taiping could continue to draw visitors, especially those from China.
“Given that people from China can now come to Malaysia without applying for a visa, we hope to welcome more of them.”
Khoo also said that more could be done to promote Taiping’s attractions.
“Among them is the Matang Museum, popularly known as Kota Ngah Ibrahim. The fort has historical value as it is around 150 years old,” he said.
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| Tai: I’ve witnessed a growth in population and new development in Taiping |
Taiping-born product development senior manager Rachel Tai, who worked in Kuala Lumpur, said her hometown had undergone significant transformation over the years.
“I’ve witnessed a growth in population and new development like housing, shopping malls and hotels,” said Tai who returned home every two months.
“Despite these changes, the iconic Lake Gardens at the core of Taiping, remains unchanged. It still serves as the heart of the town that has gained popularity among both local and international tourists.
“I appreciate Taiping just the way it is. I hope the local council will keep maintaining Lake Gardens and Bukit Larut.
“I also wish for Taiping to remain a peaceful town.”
According to the Taiping Municipal Council website, various programmes have been planned throughout the year.
These included photography competitions, Chinese New Year celebration, flora festival, endurance challenge, fun runs, hiking events, sporting competitions and a cultural carnival.
Taiping Municipal Council president Khairul Amir Mohamad Zubir is busy preparing for the launch of the 150th anniversary celebration that will be held tomorrow.
Perak Mentri Besar Datuk Seri Saarani Mohamad is expected to officiate the event at the Taiping Heritage Square.
The launch will also feature a host of activities from 7am to 11.30pm.
These would include a 5km fun run, cultural performances, classical bicycle exhibition, motorcycle convoy, busker competition and performances by local artistes.
